Last day in Uganda...

Hello my friends!

This is a short note to say that I'm sadly on my last 24hrs in Uganda. I fly 9am tomorrow to UK. Yesterday morning I left Rukungiri surrounded by many hugs from friends who I am already missing so much - especially the team: Evas, Warren, Nelson, Zi, Generous, Jones and David Kastar. We had a great time together, doing so much work and so much laughing!

But it's not goodbye, just 'see you soon', because I really hope to be back next year. There's more to do and I feel that I have more to give.

For now though I need a break - summer calls back in UK, family and friends need to remember my face and it'll be time to prepare for the next idea: UK tour!

See: www.chillichildren.blogspot.com for a recent update of Project happenings and more about the tour.

Thanks for your interest in following my journey. It's been more amazing than I can actually put into words here. I just hope that I've been able to show you some small part of it - but to really see it you need to visit yourself and look into the eyes of even one child who is managing to be totally happy despite disability and you'll know what I mean.

Love and peace, Becky x x x

(more will come later including video links on youtube once I've got to better internet connection in Uk - oh and also after that break!!)

Highs, lows and Bananagrams

These are hot dry days in Rukungiri. The rains left us nearly a month ago. My tank had a leak so empty but Edward has been picking jerrycans of water for me. Still I've cut down to washing hair and body is half a bowl of water and to flushing once per day! Electricity is also intermittent but thankfully has been mostly on this week - only stopping to disturb the breadmaker.

It's nearly 4 weeks until I come home so four and a half months have passed since I arrived. I've not blogged for a long time - forgive me!

Since I last blogged we've had a month of chilli buying, punctuated by a trip to Kampala to pick up my cousin Helen, a short survey in Kanungu district for the May orthopaedic camp, an exhausting quick trip to Kampala with Warren and Nelson to take up the chilli harvest (photo above) and then at the beginning of June we started a month of wide surveys getting to all deep into all rural areas in Kanungu and Rukungiri to register new and reassess known disabled children.

The trip in Kampala at the end of May to pick up my cousin was a particularly difficult time. On the journey up on the Monday morning I learnt that her dad, who has had cancer of the blood for many years, had really taken a turn for the worse and was in hospital. She cancelled her flight and was initially thinking of rebooking for a weekend flight but as the days went on his situation was still that she could not leave him. I was nearly ready to just get on a flight back home to be with her - having luckily my passport with me for extending my visa and a few clothes - but in the end people rallied round and she was well supported. That week, I truly felt the wonderful friendship of Gloria who I stay with in Kampala, she really was there during this time and we even made the most of the extra time together by going to the beach at Entebbe on the shore of Lake Victoria. With Gloria's sisters and friend Norma we ate fish, danced to the beach music and swam towards (but not quite reaching!) Tanzania.

Coming back to Rukungiri after that week was unsettling and even just the 7 hour dusty journey back wiped me out. But a few days later I was back into Rukungiri life and feeling again at home. 'Home' life generally consists of cooking and playing games with my Peace Corps neighbour Asher and now his sister Naomi, wondering up the hill to see my friends Lyn and David for some home-made biscuits and of course the warm greetings of many friends who work at the Diocese in the various departments (Water, Mosaic orphans, finance, cathedral, etc.).

Without a TV I have got through many books. Highlights have been:

* Tropical Fish by Doreen Baingana - a Ugandan writer - book given to me by Ellie who visited me on my birthday - thanks Ellie it was great!
* Season of Blood - a Rwandan Journey by BBC's Feargal Keane - brilliant insight into the Rwandan genocide in a really down-to-earth, no frills, 'just sort of wondered out of the pub and into a genocide shock'-style of narration
* Festo Kivengere, biography by Anne Combes - story of an international evangelist who started life attending a school just metres from where I'm staying - really has given me an insight into the history of Uganda from 1920s to 1980s including how so many people became Christians - and this wasn't just through missionaries - it was really a realisation by the people from the people: witch doctors confessed their tricks, people paid back money they had taken from another, it was a revolution that lasted for decades, and such a different (especially shorter) history of Christianity to ours in the UK of centuries of wars, burning Catholics and recently of disillusionment.

There is tonnes I could write about the work we've been doing and especially I have taken many pictures and lots of video footage which I hope to turn into some short films. But I'll write more on the charity's blog: www.chillichildren.blogspot.com

Yesterday we had a great day that I must mention as we received items from the UK sent over by friends and family hearing my pleas. We've got 4 new phones for the team who've been surviving on recharging batteries every few hours, also 3 secondhand phones, a 2ndhand laptop for Nelson who is amazed that it doesn't switch off when the electricity goes off, and a box of 141 glasses frames from Eye Emporium in Bethnal Green - my lovely opticians - who saved them up including some with prescription lenses and via Libby, Adam, Martin, Helen, Tim and finally Ruth they arrived with us here! There was much fun trying them on! (See Generous and I on the right - well how else are we going to keep amused when the others are out for the day on survey?) Seriously we're only thinking of the needy children.

My thoughts are now turning to returning and my plans are as follows:

• End of July - time with family and friends, source a campervan/motorhome to live in when not visiting (anyone know of anyone selling?)
• August - two weeks of switching off from this work in SW England, then preparing for the tour
• September - a tour of UK and Ireland of all the churches and groups who have been supporting this project - want me to visit you? let me know, get the kettle on!
• October - search for temporary job to cover rest of year - might be getting too cold to live in van!
• 2010 - (probably) go back to visit the Project again for a month at the beginning of the year to follow up on plans laid now - cunning plan continues! - and then after that hopefully settle down in UK again for a bit with a proper job and home

Thanks for your continued support and love! I'm dreaming of you all eating strawberries and watching Federer vs Nadal but I'll content myself with pineapple and Bananagrams (a seriously addictive game like scrabble but a race!).

Hearts, eggs and smiles....

Can't believe that another whole month has slipped by since last writing this blog. Thankfully Sue, one of my legendary fellow trustees, is writing updates on the Chilli Children blog so that one is more populated: www.chillichildren.blogspot.com

Some of the highlights of the last month include:

• End of March - working with the District Education Officer to reinvigorate the shared commitment between our project and the school towards 50 of deaf children who are learning and boarding (the boarding part through our contributions of staff, food, etc. by us)
• 1st April - consultation clinic in Mbarara for 10 kids with either hydrocephalus or spina bifida to be seen by surgeons with a view to operations later in the year. This was held at 'OURS' project - a similar project to ours (?!) for disabled children but covering Mbarara and Bushenyi districts which are adjacent to our districts. Really interesting to see what facilities they have - particularly as they have big funding! Something to aim for perhaps?!
• 5/6/7th April - trip to Kampala with 8 heart patients to be see cardiologist, pressed him to help us find funding for the boy, Kato Agrey, 14, who can't be operated on in Uganda so needs to find $14,900 to get operated on in India. Surprisingly enough, his father who's a village pastor (their wage is whatever comes from the Sunday collection) doesn't have $14,900 under his foam mattress. The cardiologist eventually got us a letter written requesting the funding from donors but they were unwilling to do anything with the letter. So it's up to us to find some big funder who can match this. Else the boy will probably die within 2 years. So that was fun... I've since emailed a couple of organisations that fund these ops but no response. Please pray/meditate/act on this one!

I actually did have a break over Easter and went with my friend Gloria to her friend Norma's sister's place. If that makes sense. In a village close to a town called Iganga (east of Kampala) where I think I was the first ever mzungu - the kids just stood around me and stared! Until I went 'wooooarrh' and they ran away scared. But they just kept coming back so I would do it again. I think they thought I was joking...

I introduced Norma's brothers to dippy eggs with soldiers on Easter day (a favourite back in my Hackney house :) ). They were a bit bemused that I wanted to boil the egg for less than their nuclear-blasting-equivalent of 10mins. But I really insisted and at least I enjoyed it - my substitute for not having ANY chocolate let alone chocolate eggs. We later drove back via the source of the THE Nile and had a swim in a very nice hotel's pool. So no complaints really!

I returned to Rukungiri on Wednesday to lots of people welcoming me back. It's amazing how quickly it has become home, returning felt good. I arrived back with a visitor, Louise, who was surely sent by the randomness of the universe/the grace of God/obvious logic - which ever you believe in! Louise sat down in their church in Dunstable on Easter Sunday next to my cousin Helen, not knowing her very well but deciding to share with Helen her dilemma: "I'm flying to Kenya tomorrow but the programme I'm volunteering for has been cancelled". Three days later she's on a bus with me down to Rukungiri!

I've been really busy experiencing and getting involved in the project that I've had little time to write up the copious notes I'm making or to really reflect back all this experience to the UK. So Louise's coming is actually great timing as she's been able to take on making a film of the surgical camp which I just wouldn't have had time to do. So look out for this coming soon - internet connection willing!

We're in Kisiizi hospital now and this weekend the children with their mum/dad/guardian have shown up ready for operations in this coming week. Mostly burns cases and cleft lips as this is a plastic surgery camp. Really not the 'plastic surgery' that most people think of in the Western world. These kids are not here for face lifts or breast implants!

I stood up and told them that there may have been some people who do not think their children are important, some who have said bad things in the street about their child's disfigurement (yes, they agreed to this) but I also said that there are a lot of other people out there who think their children ARE important. In fact that they are beautiful. I said I was here to pass on funds from people in the UK and Ireland who think this.

I felt really privileged to be able to say this to them. But it needs to be said. There can be some really awful attitudes to disability and disfigurement in Uganda, as there can in UK too.

They are always so unbelievably grateful for the funding that I really can't always find words to explain why people give donations or what we are getting back from them. I managed at least to think of this. I said, "you know you really don't know what you have to give." (pause while Evas translates into Rukiga) "People here smile a lot more than they do in the UK. You might think that people smile there all the time because of what they have. But they don't. They really don't. So I'm taking back your smiles" (pause again for translation) Then HUGE SMILES!!!

So here are some smiles that I'm sending back to anyone reading this. Thanks for everyone's continued support. Sorry I've been a bit cut off from emails etc. But I'm feeling your thoughts and prayers as I hope you're feeling mine.

(I've just spent ages trying and failing to upload a photo of smiles here - please instead click on this link:) http://picasaweb.google.com/chilli.children/SmilesFromUganda#5326497308715781746

Royally Rubbish Rebecca Reporting Right from Rukungiri Town Centre

Ok so I've been Royally Rubbish at updating my blog whilst in Rukungiri over the last 3 weeks. But the internet access here in not all that easy - there's 2 internet cafes and the first one I went to today had failed to pay their subscription so there was no network!
Oh well I'm here and have a few mins while I ignore the long list of emails I've received and not replied to. Many apols to all who've I've ignore so far. Hopefully all responses will come in the next couple of weeks - I'm now completely on African time!
One of the most interesting things is the proliferation of mobile phones. A technology that has raced past the flush toilet, the fridge and the traffic light to be in the hand of nearly every earning Ugandan.

So this is one way for me to communicate with you! Through the sheer joy of Twitter, I can text in an update while I'm out in the field - view my latest efforts here: http://twitter.com/chillichildren

Apart from earthquakes, rats in the living room and thunderstorms, there's also lots of work going on: meetings, camps, chilli visits and accounts work. Even the effort of hand washing clothes takes up a day - but it's my equivalent of yoga on my leg muscles so I consider it my fitness training! Photo above is of Isaac an 18 yr old boy(/man?!) who has been part of the Project for a long time: cleft palate op at age 4 and chilli farming since age 10. He's now got 200 bushes and brings in about 10kgs per season which gets him 45,000shillings (about 18quid) with which he's bought recently - a bike and a goat! It's a big help when there's very little employment around and he's still at school. It was great fun visiting him and building a chilli dryer - I even tested it out my getting inside and lying on the top shelf! So it's strong enough to carry me and with all this starchy foods - that's strong! (Photos to follow)

Right I better get back to those emails. Thanks for all the birthday texts/calls and even I received one card! So the post totally works - just takes about 20days.
My address is: Becky Thorn, North Kigezi Diocese Orphan and Disabled Children's Project, PO Box 23, Rukungiri, UGANDA, East Africa.

I hear the UK is cold again but some are planting spuds already - so hope you're still enjoying the outside. It's my total joy to nip outside just after and before bed to look out over the valley, see the mist, hear the animals and children singing and smell the wood smoke! I aint in Hackney anymore!

Friday 5pm Garden City Mall Internet Cafe

The internet has come back up and I only have a few mins to write this so please excuse spelling mistakes!

Nearing the end of my week in Kampala and my first days in Uganda looking out across this 5 month trip. It's a busy week but near the end most jobs were done and I was able to slow down and move at Ugandan speed. But actually what is Ugandan speed? It's more Ugandan flow. One minute it's fast fast on the straight jam-free roads then slow slow in the middle of a city jam. When it comes to arranging a day, there are few fixed times but somehow everything is fitted in and goes smoothly without much stress. Like the traffic, everyone glides in and out of their schedules and makes enough room for others without slowing themselves down. Very few are really pushing solely their own agenda but all are moving forward in a good speed (most of the time). It's an amazingly self-organising co-operative yet fast mode of operation. Maybe these Game Theorists should forget some of their old Western assumptions and come model Kampala traffic.

Enough of the maths, the basics of the week have been: heat, reunions, shopping and transport.

• Heat - 28/29 degrees Centigrade average over the last week, some rain but it's refreshing!
• Reunions - staying with Gloria and her lovely sisters has been great including meeting Gloria's colleagues at the HIV/AIDs treatment clinic at Mulago Hospital and also last night I stayed with Patrick (Tall Controller from Newsletter 4 - see www.chillichildren.org.uk) and his wife Eva. It's great to be able to say hello without having to say goodbye straightaway. There is already talks of what to do in Easter and of helping out visitors who need picking from the airport etc.
• Shopping - all cash, no cards - I'm really having to watch what I spend. But I've managed to get some supplies like hair conditioner to give me some 'luxuries' when I get down to Rukungiri. Also, for those who took part in the 'Hunt the Colostomy Bag Game' that I was playing before i left - the good news is I found them here eventually! They were 40p each! So much for Boots of Hitchin who wanted to charge me 40quid but then wouldn't let me have anything without a prescription. There are two children under 4 who are going to be a bit more comfortable now!
• Transport - I've been catching a ride with Gloria from Ntinda suburb into her work and then 40p boddaboddas (motorbikes with back seats but no helmets!) or 20p matatus (minibus taxis) or just plain walking. I got a map but this is very strange for the locals - they just 'know' where things are.

One of the best things that works really well and is actually cheaper than UK is mobile phones. So my Uganda number is now: 00 256 783 101 586 (this includes UK int. dialing (00) and Uganda no. 256) If you want to call then please do it would be nice to hear from you! Please remember that I'm GMT+3hrs and UK is GMT until end of March then GMT+1. International phone cards from PO are v good at approx 10p per min.

Random people I've met this week: someone who works with the Minister for Gender, a couple of US volunteers working with one of the main newspapers Daily Monitor, lovely people from Africare (another community development NGO) and whilst helping out Ellie from Community Links I've met her friends who actually used to teach with my uncle in Kettering - it's a small small world!

Words learnt: (all Lugandan this week) Kale (karley) = OK; Ggabale (jaybarlay) = Hello; and if some one is looking good then you say they are 'sharp, sharp'.

The week coming: Travel to Rukungiri tomorrow in the Project's ambulance with Warren (although he's still on his way to Kampala and fixing a tyre). It's a 7hr journey in heat but let's hope we see some zebras!

Hope you're all well - I hear the snow is still coming down! I recommend going to a sauna! Warming up is good for the soul. Or just keep each other warm!!

So in general all is well and I am just feeling like I am in the right place at the right time.

And she's off...

Just checked in online. Wow. And I'm ready to swop snow for red dust and chocolate for pineapples. Must dash but keep watching for the first Uganda instalment. Thanks everyone who's been driving me round this week and to all who helped me move out of London and into my brother's shed. And thanks to Lily for making me feel at home with 'B, puzzle, B? puzzle. B? B!!! puzzle!!!' 'yes Lily anything you say, gorgeous!'

Less than two weeks before I fly...

I haven't blogged for a bit because I've been pretty busy zooming to Exeter, Bristol, Scotland and on my last days in London! Moving out of my flat and into my brother's damp shed (that's my things, not me...) on Saturday. Farewell London after 7 years.

Thanks to those London-ites, mostly the Bethnal Green Maths-sive (inc. those who've flown that nest), who came to my Farewell Tea Party last Sunday. We raised £127.40 in the end from a raffle and cake sales. Thanks to all who helped. That money is now in the Chilli Trust bank account and will be sent off in March to cover expenditure May to July. Watch this space! (Sorry if you weren't invited - it means I've lost your email address so please be in touch!)

I'm all set to fly off on 7th Feb. I'm being 'picked' (as they say in Uganda) from the airport by my friend Gloria who lives in Kampala. Gloria is one of the first people who was helped by the 'Bisley & West End World Affairs Group' when it was started by my parents and their friends 20 years ago. Her school fees were sponsored (there wasn't a state school system in the 80s/early 90s) through this group by a Scot and she went on to become a doctor. While she was in the UK doing her medical degree she spent a Christmas and an Easter with our family and we became firm friends.

I'm so looking forward to seeing her and my other friends in Uganda again! But it's been VERY hard to say goodbye to my UK friends. Tears before bedtime, there've been a few.

The solution, therefore, is for you UK guys to come out and visit me in Uganda! There you go! Two at least are definites and others have given good intentions. So I'll be considering a 'visitors blog' to put all the info you need on there. If you're even mildly considering tropical travel, start your jabs now! (The first time I went in '97, it was a last minute decision and had 10+ needles in 2 weeks)... oh dear, jabs and pain association too soon, I've never been good at selling.

Something more exciting - lions and tigers and bears, oh my! (well 1 out of 3...)

Suggested itinery for a 12 day visit:
Day 1: Arrive Entebbe airport and get taxi to Kampala (30mins - soak up the woodsmoke smell on this drive - it's magic! you've arrived! welcome to Africa!)
Day 2: Acclimatise in Kampala - with a friend of mine or a recommended hotel - and get currency, books, swim in a pool and check emails (?) (recommend Blue Mango)
Day 3: Travel to Rukungiri (we'll figure this one out - hopefully I or a friend can come and pick you otherwise you can get the Post Bus - safest but slowest - from outside Kampala Post Office)
Days 4-7: Visiting the Children's Project in action around Rukungiri with food at my place and a we'll find you a good bed.
Days 8-10: Safari up at Queen Elizabeth National park (lions, elephants, hippos, baboons, etc.)
Day 11: Travel back to Kampala, swim in the pool and visit theatre/craft market or rest
Day 12: Fly back to Blighty

I recommend getting the Brandt travel guide - most comprehensive.
If you can stay longer then there is MUCH more we can do and more you can help with, on a level and subject that suits you.

If you visit, the main help you can give is bringing things over that we can't get in Uganda. For example, I think one of the old laptops is dying that has ALL the accounts and stats on it. If anyone can source us a secondhand laptop then we would be very grateful! You'll be glad to know that you can get a good cup of tea in Uganda, unlike some other destinations, how would I be even attempting a 5 month stay without my daily cuppas?

Ok, I must finish reports, letters and start packing!